Friday, November 2, 2007

Safari Sam's Dinner and a Show



When your husband is in four bands, you become kind of selective about going to his gigs. But when a show is going to be at Safari Sam's, I always say yes. Because I know I'm going to have a good time and leave well-fed. I really like the club's layout. There is a large hall for watching the bands, and the outdoor smoking area is like being at a cocktail party. My favorite area is the loft, where I can order dinner and watch everything from a distance. It's like three clubs in one. Service is always friendly, they have a large selection of beers on tap, and the food is fantastic.

The menu is standard American bar fare, with a bit of Cal-Mex and pub grub thrown in. Although they have a number of dinners and hot plates, I don't really like to wrestle with a knife and a fork in a nightclub. That said, I will make an exception for my favorite item on the menu, fish and chips. The coating is light and crispy, and the fish is always fresh. Their "seasoned" fries are actually more like garlic fries with a few other seasonings thrown in to keep the garlic company. They are delicious, but so intense I have never even finished an entire side of fries. The appetizer order of fries arrives in a bowl bigger than your head, so prepare to share.

The penne pasta also arrives in the same humongous bowl with your selection of sauces. The Pomodoro-style tomato-basil is a good choice. Vegans can rejoice, because the vegan meatloaf is still available, even though it is not listed on their re-vamped menu. The vegan meatloaf is juicy and flavorful, if a bit spicy. They also have a vegan Boca burger, but you can always make that at home. Go for the house special.

safari sams burger. Don't drink and food-style.

The sandwiches are where Safari Sam's really shines. It is obvious some thought was put into matching the right fresh bread to each sandwich. Their burger ranks right up there with the best of them. The quality of the ingredients really shows, and this is where little touches like homemade ketchup make all the difference. Even the simple chicken sandwich is elevated with a french roll, ripe red tomatoes, nicely-grilled chicken and a flavorful aioli.



There are a number of intriguing offerings on the new menu, including a ribeye sandwich and a fried fish sandwich. Safari Sam's quesedilla and taquitos are kind of average, so I am not sure the addition of nachos and crispy tacos was really neccessary. The unusual pairing of fried shrimp and zucchini threw me for a loop until I thought about tempura. If it works there, why not? They have an adept hand with the deep-fryer. I'm definitely eager to try the wings.

I recommend arriving around 9:30 so you can finish eating before it is time to socialize and rock out. Service slows considerably as the night drags on as well.

The many faces of Safari Sam's:

Straight into the pit:




Mike Watt

tom missing men


mudhoney

keith morris



Party in the Parking Lot!










Go, DJ Go DJ, Go!

Yai #1 and #2

yai exterior

I had one of the worst meals of my life on a date at Yai #1. Back then they were simply known as "Yai." They were also known for their "boat noodles." For the uninitiated, boat noodles include things like liver and tripe. Our young, inexperienced palates just were not ready for that kind of adventure. Not that I've ever been a fan of liver. My date said: "This tastes like Lake Erie!" I asked him what Lake Erie tasted like. He replied, "Exactly like this," and pushed the bowl towards me. So when I was listing Thai restaurants, I made a note of Yai. I wanted to make sure I did not end up there again.

I invited my seafood-loving friend out for my most recent Thai adventure, so I chose a place called Thai Seafood. She misheard me and--wouldn't you know it--somehow we ended up at Yai. There is a Yai #2 in the shopping center at Hollywood and Vermont. The second outpost is a world apart from its flagship. Large, bright, clean and modern, the space is inviting in an IKEA kind of way.

I was up for anything. It had been 10 years since I last visited Yai, and this place looked like another world. It turned out to be the most 50/50 multiple personality dining experience of my life. We either loved the dishes or hated the dishes. Some of the service was apathetic at best, and other employees went waaaaaay above and beyond the call of duty. Yai #2 had a split personality.

yai inside

By and far, our favorite dish was the crispy catfish. It was deep-fried to perfection, reminding me of New Orleans-style. There were few bones, and the skin was thin and edible (and easy to pick off it you are a little particular, like some people). The catfish was mild, but came with a fiery-hot dipping sauce.

yai catfish

The Yai glass noodles would also be worth a special trip back. Soon. The noodles were not in the least bit greasy - not too much sauce, not too little sauce, Just right. The plate was generous with tofu, egg, and veggies. The sauce was very flavorful but gentle with cooling lime, a nice relief from the fire of the other dishes.

noodle.

Now things start going downhill. Up for a little more adventure than in younger days, I had ordered the boar curry. At this point it is very hard for me to make a fair evaluation, since I have never had boar curry anywhere else. Yet. The curry was complex and multi-layered. You could cook anything in a red curry like that and it would be delicious. You could probably cook people in that sauce and it would be pretty good. And I just might try it. The bits of meat I could pick out were very similar to moose, and if you've never had moose, then brisket would be the best comparison. The little, round Thai eggplants were also delicious. But most of the dish was comprised of chewy strips of fat. I asked our friendly host, Jay, if the dish included any organs, or if there was really that much fat on the boar. He said it was only boar meat. It's just a really fatty animal. Later I asked my friend why they don't just trim off the fat and she said, "They must like it."

boar

The last and most shocking dish was the ever-popular papaya salad. This papaya salad came with salted crab, which sounded so delicious. When the dish arrived, there were little purple crabs, shells uncracked, lounging around in the shredded papaya. Then my friend took a bite and made this face:

salty crab

Now for those who have confronted me on the issue of salty crab, let me explain that my friend here is an archeologist who goes to countries you would never even consider visiting, climbs in disgusting holes and digs up dead people. And she eats whatever her local hosts feed her. She is not exactly a wilting violet. I took a bite of the crab and when the fumes hit the back of my throat I was afraid to close my mouth and have those flavors touch my tongue. My friend had to force me to close my mouth, and my entire body was inundated with salt. It was the saltiest thing I have ever had in my life. Even saltier than salt. Mixed with a fermented fishiness, it was one of the most intense things I have ever eaten. I have eaten worse-tasting things, but this was like "Thrill Seekers."

papaya salad yai

We tried a little papaya to get the taste out of our mouths and whoa, the salad was intense with vinegar and fish sauce. You would think with something as intense as that crab, you would want a refreshing salad, not pure vinegar. But it was as if the various components of the salad were in a war for dominance. It was so intense we started having fun photographing each other taking bites of it and grimacing.

Our new friend, Jay, explained that the crab comes pre-brined from Viet Nam. He was even kind enough to bring out the package to show us.

crab package

Check out that sodium content!

sodium.jpg

Since my first experience at Yai #1 ten years ago had been so bad, and since my experience at Yai #2 was so mixed, I thought it was only fair that I go back to Yai #1 before writing this review. I placed my order to go, then walked over to 7-11 to get cash out for the cash-only Yai. My ATM card was not in my wallet. It was not in my purse. It was not in a box or with a fox, here nor there, nor anywhere. I had already placed my order. I was screwed. I had to slink back over and start counting out my crumpled up ones and the change from my car. It was so humiliating, I wanted to die. But everyone was so nice to me. When the other diners saw me counting quarters, they offered help, but I declined. Finally I came up 4 dollars short. Can you believe I actually carry around 15 dollars worth of change?! They insisted I take the food, and I insisted I will be back with the 4 dollars, and you can bet I will add on a hefty tip.

For the Yai #1 to-go I ordered my favorite dishes from Yai #2. The cellophane noodles were just as good, if not better. They are my new favorite.

cellophane noodles

I also ordered the catfish, which was slathered with fiery red sauce instead of served on the side. It was expertly fried, but they had not removed the pin-bones as the other place did.

yai catfish

I also ordered my alternative to phad thai, spicy mint leaf noodle. Made with the same flat noodles as pad see ew, it is usually called lard na or some variation thereof. But most places just call it "chicken noodles." Theirs were first rate, with the variant of ground chicken instead of chicken pieces. The chicken was ground up with the herbs and spices, which all mixed in with the noodles like a bolognese sauce and made it a far superior dish.

chicken noodle

The chicken green curry was not too unusual. I liked the bamboo shoots and Thai eggplant, two of my favorite vegetables. The curry was rich with coconut milk, but it was hotter than hell. An excellent meal all around. And I will definitely be back soon. Because I owe them 4 bucks.

green curry

Yai Restaurant 5757 Hollywood Blvd. LA, CA 90028 (323) 462-0292
Yai #2 1627 Vermont Ave. LA, CA 90028 (323) 644-1076

Thursday, November 1, 2007

A&P Pastries

sign

On the furthest edge of Thai Town, in the very back of a sparsely occupied shopping center, just down the sidewalk from the fish market, sits A&P Pastries. The tiny bakery is like a jewel in the rough. I love the decor, especially the Christmas-y decorations. Maybe they are leftovers from the holidays, but more likely it is pure coincidence. In addition to the festive touches, the mood in the small bakery is comfortable and welcoming. The counter girl is so cute and friendly; it is really a joy to shop there.

Pandam cakes


The two pastry cases boast beautiful pastel creations - rolled sponge cakes, French puff pastries, and cream puffs, along with savories like chicken turnovers and buns.

Most Asian sweets tend to go easy on the fat and sugar, which is often a refreshing change. A&P has the best of both worlds - a selection of traditionally rich Western-style desserts, as well as lighter cakes. The French-style pastries are sweet and full of a heavy cream, especially the delicious miniature cream puffs. The jelly rolls are more typical of Asian sweets, with a delicate sponge cake and a light-as-air whipped cream filling. The vanilla is pure heaven, but the orange jelly roll is somewhat intense.

There are also the familiar pale-green tinted cakes and jelly rolls which are flavored with bai dteuy, a type of pandanus leaf used to flavor Thai sweets. The taste is delicate, vaguely similar to vanilla, rose or coconut, yet distinctly its own.

The bakery sells a variety of buns, which are the freshest I have come across outside of my own kitchen. Some of the buns are filled with ham and cheese, but I would recommend the custard-filled variety. The pandam custard is disturbingly similar to guacamole in tint and texture. It's still delicious if you eat it with your eyes closed. Just try not to think about guacamole (Do not think of a white horse).


bakery festive decor


jelly roll


freshly baked buns


These are some mighty large, hot-dog shaped blueberries


A&P Pastries 5112 Hollywood Blvd. #109 LA 90027 (323) 668-0976

Bhan Kanom Thai

<bhan kanom

Welcome to the frosty world of Thai snow cones! Also known as nam kang sai, they are not exactly what you imagine when you hear "snow cone". I was not sure what I was ordering the first time I wandered into Bhan Kanom Thai. Luckily, I'm not all that picky about what I eat anyways. I like a little adventure. It's a dessert, after all, so it's not as if it's going to be full of eyeballs or something.

Bhan Kanom Thai is a very well-stocked import candy and snack shop. They have a fresh bakery and make their own desserts. There are two cases running along the side of the spacious shop. One side holds trays of desserts like pumpkin in milk, and sweet black beans in sweetened condensed milk. The other half of the case is given over to the wonder of the snow cone. This is not your mother's snow cone (Unless, of course, your mother is Thai. Then it probably is your mother's snow cone).

The server holds a large styrofoam cup at the ready. You are given several options, from which you select three or four. Some of them are familiar to most Angelenos by now - sliced jackfruit, green-tinted boba, and coconut jelly. There were also little basil seeds that were flavorless but had the fun crunch of poppy seeds. I went with the larger "palm seeds" which are actually attap, the immature fruit of the Mangrove palm. They looked like big clear lima beans. A lot of Thai sweets seem to be clear and gelatinous. I also chose boba, coconut jelly, and jackfruit.

Snow cones in progress

The server filled the cup the rest of the way to the top with crushed ice, and gestured to three syrups. The first one he could only identify as "red". I asked for more clarification, like if this was a fruit flavor, and everyone just stared at each other and repeated "red". It made me think of artificially flavored "grape" kool-aid that really is the flavor "purple" when you think about it. I gestured towards the green bottle and he shook his head no. Bad choice. So I went with the clear syrup, which he could identify as "Jasmine." Later I was to discover that the green syrup was "cream soda" flavor. "Red" flavor is actually called sala, which is a flavor that comes from the fruit of the sala tree. It reminds me of a cross between Campari and cherry cough syrup.

Unlike some people, I enjoy floral flavors - I'm particularly fond of rose water, and a strange Canadian candy called "Floral Gums" that most of my friends think tastes like soap. So I really liked the Jasmine syrup. At first I approached the snow cone as more of a scientific experiment than a food, poking it and letting the textures play on my tongue. But after I got home and most of the ice had melted, what I was left with was an ice-cold fruit salad that I could not stop eating. Temperatures in the 100s made the snow cone a perfect snack.

So perfect in fact, that I made the trek back to Thai Town the very next day. And I was back a few days later to turn my friend on to the wonders of the snow cone. We arrived early enough to watch them baking and preparing all kinds of exotic goodies. This time I mixed it up a little, choosing jackfruit, palm seed, and red beans. The string-like white jelly is completely flavorless. My friend chose basil seeds for hers, and said that they looked like tiny little eyeballs. And after I had promised no eyeballs! She went with green "cream soda" flavor which turned out to be really sweet and tasted nothing like cream soda. We accepted the offer to top off the ice with a dollop of sweetened condensed milk, but that just took it too far. It made the snowcone almost too sweet to be edible.

Amongst the other taste treats there, I have picked up sweet candy threads that you roll up in a mushu-like pancake, a squishy thing that looks like a taco, sweet crispy tacos, egg yolk pastries that look like flowers, and little candies that look like hot peppers. I also picked up some dried Durian which I have yet to try. I think I'll save that one for the next LAist get-together.


melting jackfruit, boba palm seed and coconut jello snow cone with Jasmine syrup


snow cone options


basil seed snowcone with cream soda syrup


yolk pastry being prepared


Bhan Kanom Thai 5271 Hollywood Blvd. LA 90027 (323) 871 8030

Other locations:
12714 Sherman Way North Hollywood 91605 (818) 255-3355
8402 Alondra Blvd. Paramount 90723 (562) 633-2799

Ganda Thai

buddha.jpgIf Hollywood's Thai Town has a center, it is the bustling block of Thailand Plaza. The two-story Plaza houses not only a restaurant, but is home to a Thai bookstore and a giant, well-stocked grocery. Thailand Plaza is easily identifiable by its elaborately decorated shrine to the Thai Buddha of four faces. Off to the side stands a spirit house, meant to entice spirits to take up residence. The idea is they will be so distracted they will not be tempted to move into your house. Just adjacent to Thailand Plaza is a square called "Thai Town Plaza". This plaza has a truly happening restaurant row. It is anchored by Ruen Thai, the ritzy Red Corner Asia, and dessert shop Bhan Kanom. In the corner stands Thai Patio, the location that once housed Palms Thai (which has relocated to 5900 Hollywood, taking Thai Elvis with them). Hiding inauspiciously in the corner is the easily overlooked Ganda.

Right now the foodies may be singing the praises of North Hollywood as the Thai mecca du jour, but LAist is all about loyalty, and we still love Thai Town, forever and always.

The "official" boundaries of Thai Town stretch between Western and Normandie on Hollywood Blvd. That's not much room to stretch, really, so the Thai restaurants have spread out towards the 101 Hollywood freeway and Vermont, spilling over to Sunset as they continue their outward diaspora.

In addition to their geographical boundaries, Thai restaurants in Hollywood are stretching their culinary boundaries as well. From Thai Express, the most basic corner stand sporting a hot dog on the roof, to the upscale Red Corner Asia, these neighborhood restaurants are serving a diverse clientele. Chefs are exploring Chinese fusion at Chuan Chim, Shabu Shabu at Hollywood Thai Cuisine, and even giving Thai food a latino spin over at Vim (pronounced Wim). One can still find comfort in the safety of pad thai, or head over to Palms for some serious boar curry. From noodle houses to grills, from little bakeries to Thai snow cone shops, the choices are endless. So let's go thai one on!

sign

Starting in the heart of Thai Town, Ganda's generous buffet-style steam trays lure me inside. The decor is hip and exotic. If this restaurant were anywhere but the heart of Thai town, it would have your friends asking in awe, "How did you FIND this place?

One side of the restaurant contains a little shop of Thai goods. The centerpiece of the restaurant is the large steam table that overflows with a feast of enticing dishes. Only about half of them are recognizable, which only adds to my excitement. No one speaks much English, which I also take as a very good sign.

You can also order from a menu, but the steam table was too exciting to pass up. The curries immediately drew me in. They were not limited to the usual green, yellow, red and massaman. There were at least 8 different curry dishes. I recognized the fringe of tripe in one of them, and fish balls in another.

I pointed at a deep red curry and a green curry brimming with some unfamiliar vegetable. It was similar to collard greens, or kale, but much tougher. I was finally able to identify it as cassia leaves. Thai curries are so complex and intense it is often difficult for the palate to differentiate individual ingredients. No single flavor should dominate. When cooked correctly, the flavors of a curry should meld into a complex symphony. And Ganda was definitely playing my song. The red curry contained only tender beef, with no vegetables or fillers. The curry paste was thick, like a panang, and the dish nicely combined richness and heat. Another 3-star spicy dish for sure.

Ganda successfully balanced the basic flavors of Thai cooking: hot (spicy), sour, sweet, and salty. Actually, it was pretty heavily balanced towards the spicy. The fiery curries were stimulating in small doses, but I'm sure they could become dare-worthy pretty quickly. In Thai, you can ask them for something not so spicy with the phrase mai phet (not spicy) or mai sai prik (do not put in chilis). (www.realthai.blogspot.com).

Combo plates from the steam table come with 2 or 3 selections, plus steamed rice. For my third selection I chose kunchaing, an interesting-looking sausage that had caught my eye the second we walked in the door. Referred to as "Chinese sausage", the Chinese lettering on the package actually says "Taiwanese sausage" and it is made in Whittier. It is much denser than the usual sai krok. It is like a dense polska kielbasa, bordering on a salami. The sausage was unusually sweet, yet it was not cloying or unpleasant. It was as if a delicate sweet syrup had been brushed on it as it cooked.

The spicy mint-leaf chicken ordered from the menu was a nice foil to the spiciness and actually cooled things down. The wide rice noodles were soft and slippery without being greasy. I was pleasantly surprised by the addition of long beans and straw mushrooms. It is definitely comfort food, and exactly the kind of thing you would want to eat if you had a cold.

Like many places in Thai Town, Ganda accepts cash only. Luckily there are two ATMs in the plaza. Also, like many of the places in the plaza, they stay open until 2 o'clock in the morning. The place was staffed entirely by women, and they were all welcoming and amiable in spite of the language barrier.

Although I am drawn to the bright lights and elegant vibe of Thailand Hollywood Plaza's other restaurants, I think I will be sticking with Ganda for awhile.


buffet


sausage and curry


chicken noodles


Ganda shopping


Thailand Plaza's spirit house


chinese sausage



(When I asked for the restrooms, the server handed me a tiny little bucket. I stared at her. She stared at me. I looked at the bucket, and I looked back at her. She laughed and pointed to the key that was attached to the bucket. This place wasn't THAT exotic).



Ganda Thai
5269 Hollywood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90027-4912
(323) 466-4281

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Where to Eat in Northridge



The San Fernando Valley rivals the Westside and the Fairfax District in the deli department. In Northridge alone, there are three competing delis: Brent's, Abe's and Weiler's. Each one has its own fans.

Brents 19565 Parthenia St. Northridge (818) 886-5679



For a long time I was strictly into Brents, a local institution since 1967. They are definitely considered the frontrunner by most people. My friend insists their matzoh balls are the best, and that they are "the size of my head." Their pastrami and corned beef sandwich, pictured above, has to be eaten with a fork before it can be made small enough to fit it in your mouth. They open at 6am, and serve most menu items early. They are famous for their catering, and have just opened a location in Westlake.




Abe's 19626 Nordhoff St Northridge 91324 (818) 701-5563



Abe's is open until 11pm on Friday and Saturday nights, which is convenient. They used to be a Solley's, until Solley's twin brother Abe took over. Which makes this delivery truck an obvious prop. Their cream puffs are freakishly large, the deli guys are friendly, and their pastrami is spectacular. And who can resist free pickles while you wait? But even the people I met there said they chose Abe's because it was easy to get into on a Sunday morning.






Weiler's 9046 Balboa Boulevard Northridge 91325
818-892-8663



Lately Weiler's on the corner of Nordoff and Balboa has started to win me over. They opened in 1962, although they have changed locations. In spite of their un-deli-ish "country charm" decor, they do have some excellent pastrami and a definite neighborhood vibe. Servers greet customers by name and hardly anybody needs a menu. Plus they have these scary cookies that remind me of an unforgettable episode of Gumby:




Really, I am just into the sign. But admit it, you love mojo potatoes. 10340 Reseda Blvd, Northridge (818) 360-2151




A&W Seafood 9306 Reseda Blvd. Northridge 91324

A&W Seafood is known for its Hong Kong-style dim sum lunches. It may not be Monterey Park, but it's pretty darn good. The hostess alternates between being kind of angry and sugary-sweet, which I find a scary combination. Otherwise, the service is friendly, and the ambiance is refreshingly cool and elegant on a hot day.




Colleges always attract good, cheap eats and CSUN is no exception

Cupids 9039 Lindley Av, Northridge



Cupid's hot dogs can be a little bland, so I recommend you go heavy on the toppings. But the snap of the skin and the fat content are in perfect balance. The bun is soft and fresh, and the price can't be beat.


My Hero 9514 Reseda Blvd # 15 Northridge (818) 349-4255

I once walked into a classroom on the first day of class at CSUN and the instructor had written on the board:

How to survive CSUN:

1. Attend class
2. Study
3. My Hero

Their subs are first-rate, but the secret is the tomato salad. Even when I was vegan, I would just get a tomato salad sandwich. The Italian-style dressing is not overpoweringly vinegary, and the the crunch of the celery is just right.


Falafel Palace 9255 Reseda Blvd. Northridge (818) 993-0734



This is the place for vegans. They even have vegan baklava. But carnivores can feast on shwarma with all the trimmings, and it wouldn't kill you to have a falafel once in awhile. In fact, this is the place where even the most avowed meat-lover should have a falafel.


Mongolian King 9545 Reseda Blvd # 20 Northridge 91324 (818) 886-9711

Before every mall in the world had a Mongolian BBQ, I used to love the novelty of this place. Now I go there because the sauce is a million times better than the sauce at the place in the mall. They also have big, bread puffs that will burn the bejeesus out of your hands, so be careful.


Las Hadas 9048 Balboa Blvd Northridge 91325 (818) 892-7271

I always thought Las Hadas just looked like an an Acapulco's kind of office-lunch place until Frank Black told me it was his favorite Mexican place in Northridge. It turned out they have fantastic enchiladas and huge, dangerous margaritas that make the girls from the office tell you all of their secrets.


Bakeries

Delicious Bakery 9147 Reseda Blvd. Northridge (818) 349-5700



Delicious Bakery, hidden in the corner of the Vons parking lot is a secret, so don't tell anyone. This is where all of the delis get their baked goods. Go straight to the source and get your black-and-white cookies fresh out of the oven. Just look at the size of that hamantashen!


Weinie Bakery 9250 Reseda Blvd. (818) 886-7331



Hidden in the corner of a strip mall, the Weinie Bakery is the place for all things bao. They offer all types of Chinese buns and baked goods. Buns come will fillings like barbecued chicken, vegetarian tofu, and yes, they even have a roll with sliced hot dogs baked into it.


24-hour Party People

El Indio 17019 Roscoe Northridge (818) 765-9259



El Indio On Roscoe just west of Balboa, is a late-night mecca for cops and cars full of drunk partiers. Good tacos make for strange bedfellows. After the bars close down, the place fills with drunk guys nursing sour grapes about how the chicks who wouldn't go home with them "weren't that hot anyways." 24-hours a day, El Indio has killer carnitas tacos and the best chile relleno burritos I've ever had.


Yummy Donuts 7555 Balboa Blvd Northridge (818) 780-2204





Yummy Donuts has acceptable donuts, but the pan quesedilla is killer. So are the little twisty cream puffs. Plus they have sandwiches and ice cream. Where else can you get an ice cream cone at 4am?