The Pig Hands of Puerto Vallarta

I had an afternoon to myself to wander the streets of Puerto Vallarta. Why would they ban corgies? Those dogs never hurt anybody, and have no political leanings of which I am aware.

I asked the taxi drivers where they go to eat and they all said they only eat at home. Finally I said I wanted to go somewhere where a grandmother was cooking and they understood. I was delivered with haste to the door of Cenaduria Dona Raquel.

It was all about the pozole, and I could not be happier. The English side of the menu advertised "Delicious corn soup with pork, chicken or pork hands. Especial: with tripple portion of head meat." I totally ordered the head meat. The broth was so hot and comforting, intense with the taste of pork and hominy.

I also ordered a pig hand tostada. Who can resist that? It was a ham hock so intensely cooked the cartilage was softened. The meat was rich and tender.

This is what it looked like after I destroyed it. Yes, I felt very primal.

But my hunger was not yet sated. I needed some mole. I ate a stunning rich, dark enchilada mole and flauta combo.

So if you're ever wandering rudderless around downtown Puerto Vallarta, you know where to go! I even got a sign from above.

And if you get lost these little pebble trails lead you back to the malecon.

Puerto Vallarta, Land of the Iguana

The next day we took a boat to the Island of Puerto Vallarta, where John Huston filmed The Night of the Iguanas.

Here is a remainder of the set

Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a feast of paella, or uhhh arroz con mariscos y camarones y jaiba y otra cosas.

The hornets loved the apricot cheesecake

And I loved the flan

A gorgeous tropical island  beach, the big blue sea, fresh seafood, what on earth could make it better? How's about monkeys???

Requisite Corona shot

and a rainy trip home

Boating in Cabo

One day we took a boat out to Cove to snorkel. Everything was so relaxing and calm, it was strange when they started cranking metal.



I was a little apprehensive since I haven't been snorkeling since my 20s. I was worried I would flail and swallow water and have to stay right next to the boat. But as soon as I looked down into the cool water the world disappeared and I felt as if I could swim for miles. I felt so close to my father, remembering the times he took me snorkeling. I also feel close to him every time I'm near the water, as if when we lowered his ashes we released his spirit into the sea.

There were angel fish, both large and small, and I even saw a white-spotted black puffer fish. The further I allowed the tide to pull me, the more fish I saw. At one point the brain coral beneath me became rock and I realized I was dangerously close to being smashed into the rocks. I turned to start swimming back and saw a boatload of people waving me back in panic. So I started swimming overhand instead of the breast stroke so they would know I was coming back. But I wish I never had to stop.

Back at the harbour I wandered around Cabo some and glanced over the touristy 2 for 1 margarita restaurants.

I don't know if this is child exploitation or if it is adorable

Then I started asking the employees where they ate. Everyone pointed me towards a vacant lot behind a mall. There I found a taco truck where I ordered octopus ceviche.

The man insisted I mix the octopus, so I added shrimp. It wasn't the best ceviche I've had in Mexico, but better than anything in the US.

I also enjoyed three baja fish tacos.

Everyone was really surprised to see me there, but very friendly.

One Bitchin' Boat

I recently went on a cruise to Mexico. The ship was gorgeous. Upon first embarking, we were greeting by huge glass sculptures reminiscent of Chihuly.

I was amazed by the modern art in the halls and stairwells, wandering from deck to deck just to look at the walls. This was one beautiful ship.

The spa was friendly and comforting, and the gym even made me wish I worked out. There was a climbing wall and even an ice rink for people who do those kinds of things. There were two pool areas, one for grownups that were like Roman baths.

And a kind of psychedelic one for kids

There were like eight million opportunities to get your photo taken.

There was a gorgeous sitting area/bar where the music seemed a little intense for the mellowness of the room. First, the Sorcerers Apprentice, then the William Tell Overture. What next, the Ride of the Valkyries?



The casino had a country fair theme. This piggie was laquered into the floor.

The rooms were spacious.

The inner cabins were bigger and more comfotable than any I had seen yet.

One evening the steward made the towel into a ZZ Top style biker, which made me totally love her.

 I made only one visit to the medic. After getting eaten alive in Puerto Vallarta, the nurse passed me some of their secret potion - a green goo comprised of aloe vera, a topical anaesthetic, an anti-inflammatory and antibiotic. It immediately stopped the maddening itching. They should market it.